What a UVA Expert Wants You To Know About Sunscreen

A new report found 1 in 4 sunscreens are as effective as marketers claim them to be.

The Environmental Working Group, which noted federal sunscreen rules haven’t changed significantly since 1999, said, “Many sunscreens still fall short by offering misleading claims about protection, using outdated formulas, some even containing ingredients with potential health concerns.”

The findings have left consumers with confusion when it comes to choosing the best product to protect against skin cancer and sunburn.

portrait of Dr. Mark Russell

Dr. Mark Russell is a dermatologist. He recommends applying sunscreen with a sun protective factor of 30 to 60 at least 15 minutes before sun exposure so it can form a proper protective layer on the skin. (Contributed photo)

Dr. Mark Russell, a dermatologist with UVA Health, specializes in detecting and treating common and rare skin cancers. He said it’s important to understand the difference between chemical and mineral sunscreens.

“There are basically two different types of sunscreens. The first family is chemical sunscreen which includes several different active ingredients, such as avobenzone, oxybenzone and others,” he said. “They essentially work by being rubbed onto the skin and then absorbing the ultraviolet radiation. Those are the damaging rays from the sun.”

Russell said chemical sunscreens are easier to apply and less likely to leave a visible residue. 

“On the downside, some of these chemical sunscreens can cause a contact dermatitis of the skin, resulting in irritation,” he said. There have been studies showing chemical sunscreens detected in the blood and urine, which raises concern about potential side effects from that systemic absorption, he added. The Food and Drug Administration is currently evaluated the effects.

“There’s also a potential threat to the environment, especially marine ecosystems,” Russell said, noting that places like Hawaii, Key West, Aruba and Mexico have banned chemical sunscreens.

Mineral sunscreens, sometimes known as physical sunscreens, are the other choice. Russell said these products have either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as the active ingredient. They form a protective barrier on the skin that reflects or scatters damaging ultraviolet rays.

These have not been found to be absorbed into the blood and are considered by the FDA as “generally recognized as safe and effective,” Russell noted. “However, they may be a little harder to rub in and leave a white cast on the skin because of the active ingredients.”

lululemon Virginia Cavalier collection
lululemon Virginia Cavalier collection

Russell advises being careful with the use of spray sunscreen because much of it can blow away in the wind, and it’s hard to be sure how much of it gets on the skin. He recommends applying sunscreen with a sun protective factor of 30 to 60 at least 15 minutes before sun exposure so it can form a proper protective layer on the skin. 

He said sunscreen should be reapplied about every two hours. If you’re swimming or sweating heavily, do it hourly.

If you do get a sunburn, the doctor recommends cooling and hydrating your skin with a cool shower or wet compresses, then applying a bland moisturizer such as petrolatum to further hydrate the outer layer of the skin.

“For pain, acetaminophen or ibuprofen, and continue to apply that moisturizer periodically until the sunburn dissipates,” he said.  Severe burns, he said, may need medical evaluation for fluid replacement and pain control.

“After any sunburn, it’s helpful to reflect on how you can avoid a future episode by using sunscreen, protective clothing and seeking the shade,” he said.

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Jane Kelly

University News Senior Associate Office of University Communications