Water in the desert: A UVA anthropologist’s Fulbright semester in Cairo

Tessa Farmer is newly returned to the University of Virginia to teach anthropology and global studies after spending the last 5 1/2 months in Egypt through the Fulbright U.S. Scholar Program.

portrait of Tessa Farmer

Farmer focuses on water, social relations and Egypt – knowledge she expanded upon during her five-month stay researching in Al-Khalifa. (Contributed photo)

Farmer is an associate professor of anthropology and global studies at UVA. Her first book, “Well-Connected: Everyday Water Practices in Cairo,” examines how lower-income residents of Cairo obtain water and cope with the ramifications of sewage in their urban environments.

Building off her research, she spent her time in Egypt working with Athar Lina Initiative, a cluster of community organizations in Cairo’s historic Al-Khalifa neighborhood, to figure out how to reuse neighborhood water resources in efficient ways.

“One of the challenges they’ve found in doing restoration of buildings is leaked potable water that creates problems for foundations of contemporary buildings and damages historic buildings,” she said. “After testing the water, they found relatively low levels of contaminants and found it was usable with some minor treatment.”

Athar Lina, which translates to “the heritage is ours,” has been working in Al-Khalifa for more than a decade. Farmer has collaborated with them since 2021 and took a greater role during her Fulbright tenure.

As the organization plans creative ways to reuse the water in the neighborhood, Farmer’s principal role was to do ethnographic research in the community to investigate how Athar Lina’s work can best overlap with community needs. 

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The organization has, for years, found local uses for the water, including building more gardens on rooftops, balconies and alleyways to help manage heat in the Saharan city. Farmer helped them figure out what to grow and who might do that work, among other things.

“The organization is looking to create a more holistic vision for the work they do in the neighborhood, and they want that to be really motivated by the community,” Farmer said. “My ethnographic work was intended to do some of that communal labor of imaging what could be, based on what people want.”

Using the water, the organization previously built the Al-Khalifa Heritage and Environmental Park, which includes green spaces, an open theater and a children’s playground that’s free to use for community members.

Tessa Farmer stands with a local community member in Cairo, Egypt

As an ethnographer, Farmer engages with community members to understand local needs and opinions around water use. (Contributed photo)

“The environmental change you experience when walking into the garden is intense, because it’s covered in trees and flowers,” Farmer noted.

She also teamed up with colleagues to pass on some of her ethnographic training. She’s continuing to collaborate with those colleagues to document the work they did together.

“Participant observation is the central method of ethnography, where you try to both be in a place and do things with people while documenting through field notes,” she said. “That requires both data and analyses, because you’re recording your observations in systematic ways, and then they become a resource for you to develop a fuller picture.”

Farmer’s first book centered on water in the Ezbet Khairallah neighborhood, a short ride away from the Khalifa neighborhood. She’s currently working on her second book on charitable water fountains called “sabils,” found in al-Khalifa and throughout the city.

She said working with Athar Lina was the most fun she’s had doing research.

“It was an incredibly joyful experience, because it was so collaborative,” she said. “I got to play a small part in other people’s projects to make the city more verdant and livable, which felt fulfilling in a way that other research has not.”

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Russ Bahorsky

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