Why Thanksgiving smells so good (and feels even better)

With Thanksgiving a week away, people around the country are preparing to head home to break bread with family and friends.

The familiar is a staple of the holiday. Beautiful tables are set, people reflect on what they are thankful for and family recipes are trotted out. 

It’s estimated 46 million turkeys are devoured on Thanksgiving Day alone. The very American menu also includes mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie for dessert.

The aromas of Thanksgiving food are as enjoyable as the tastes, and one cannot be fully enjoyed without the other.

Steven Munger and Dr. Jose Mattos

Steven Munger, left, and Dr. Jose Mattos are co-directors of UVA’s Center for Smell and Taste, which opened last January. (Contributed photo)

“This is where smell and taste work together and your brain puts that information together with food or drink to give you the overall perception of the food,” said Steven Munger, co-director of the University of Virginia’s Center for Smell and Taste Disorders. “It’s really, really critical for enjoying food, for making it more palatable.”

Smell is one of the five basic senses children learn about in early elementary school, along with sight, hearing, touch and taste. 

Much of taste is innate, Munger said. If you give a baby sugar, they immediately experience it as pleasurable. If you give a baby something bitter, perhaps a slice of lemon, they pucker their lips and make a face, signaling distaste. 

Smell, Munger said, is a learned sense. You can detect a smell, but people learn to interpret its meaning. 

“If you’re thinking about Thanksgiving dinner, the smell of the turkey ... you weren’t born knowing that roasted turkey was tasty – if you like it – and was associated with family, was associated with the holiday,” he said. “Your system is set up to take those odors and learn about them and create and pair them with the memories.”

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The sweet, savory, cozy smell and memories that many associate with Thanksgiving are not true for every person. “If you’ve never smelled roasted turkey before, it’s not going to have nearly the same feeling,” Munger said.

Nearly 20% of people suffer from a diminished or altered sense of smell, and the number increases to about 50% for people 65 and older.

It’s for that reason Munger has this caution.

“The chances of someone around your Thanksgiving table not perceiving the aromas and the flavors of what’s there in the same way that you are is pretty likely,” he said.

That person could be a child who experiences food textures differently from you. It’s not that they are being picky, he added. “It’s that they really may be perceiving these things in a way that is unpleasant for them.”

For older adults, an altered sense of smell can lead to eating less because their enjoyment of the food is diminished.

“That doesn’t mean that they don’t appreciate the food you’re putting in front of them, the work you did,” he said. It reflects their biology. 

“I think it’s just a perspective to keep in mind that we all bring a little different set of reality to the table,” he said.

Media Contacts

Jane Kelly

University News Senior Associate Office of University Communications